A few days ago, we were chatting with Khawla about Emirati education system. I was asking her about the history courses they take during middle or high school. I knew that they are taught the history of Arab world including Ottoman, until maybe the early 20th century. On the other hand, they have a separate lesson for the near history of the Emirates after 1971, the year that the country was established after the discovery of oil on the land. However, I couldn’t stop thinking about the time in between, before 1970s. It is such an intriguing interval, so I wanted to find more about it.
When I ask about the Emirati history before its establishment, Khawla always reflects this question to her elders. I did not understand the reason at first, but then she literally ‘woke me up’ with this amazing fact:
The Emiratis were nomads during the majority of 20th century and before, like Turks long time ago. That’s why there is no written literature (thus no written history), not many permanent architectures, but plenty of stories to tell from one to the other. Khawla said the elders have started to organise and ‘engrave’ this information from this oral history into books in order to leave it to the next generations. I never came across a history that hasn’t been written before, if not in 21st century. It might also give Emiratis difficult time to write about their present time as well, as it keeps on changing with a ‘finger snap’. I guess this means new school books have to be published every single year. I’m really amazed, I should say.
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| The skateboard ramp at the Tashkeel exhibition, in the shape of 'Tashkeel' in Arabic caligraphy |
On Thursday, we went to an opening at Tashkeel, where I will be working to produce my sculptures. It was a typical example of Emirati hospitality, and changed the spectacle of and my expectation from the idea of an exhibition opening. Burgers, hot dogs and schawarmas were barbecued and served for free of charge along with some soft drinks. And then different types of teas and Arabic coffee were served throughout the exhibition. After that it was the dessert time: Different types of cakes and other treats were served to the guests. It wasn’t any different then being invited to a wedding. I can assure you that it was the same attention, same hospitality. That night, I went to bed quite early to prepare for the other day, for the big day with the MA (architecture) students of The University of Westminster.
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| The traditional Emirati breakfast we all had together |
Yesterday, we visited the labourers camp. It was very heartbreaking for everyone, but it was something to face with. When the group of students scattered around the streets, Magdi and I decided to go to the big supermarket at the very centre of the camp. There were hundreds of men, almost ‘0’ women inside. Before entering the supermarket, we had to give our bags at the entrance. An unfortunate untrustworthy against people living there. The supermarket as though was not functioning to sell stuff, but as a colourful exhibition display of ‘made in china’ materials, for people to just wander around and have a look at. People were not interested in flat screen TVs themselves, but more so what is shown on them. Perhaps, this was the cinema moment for the workers on their free time. It was ethically difficult to take photos (I have one though), so I try to describe as best as I can.
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| Workers camp |
The workers in Dubai, unfortunately are not treated very fairly. They receive a monthly fee around £25, and they cannot keep hold of their own visas and passports, in case of a potential crime. They cannot bring their families here. In majority, there is a specific kind of segregation while inviting workers from abroad. For example if they import male workforce from one place, they do not invite any female labourers from the same country; or vice versa. So the Emirates can avoid having minority communities constructed through marriages and families. Everyone belongs to their own class, own nationality, own gender which are all specified and categorised far in advance. I think ‘temporality’ overall is a very relevant term for Dubai, for many cases.
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| On the way to the desert; on the desert |
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| Ghada, who drove us there |
After the workers camp, we went to have a picnic on the desert. Ghada’s school friend Aliya’s (sorry for the spelling) cousin owns and runs this peaceful stable, in the middle of the sea of sand. I had lovely time, lovely food and lovely chat. I am very much grateful to them, for giving me this opportunity to join in. Many thanks!
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| Salukis here are like the Greyhounds in UK |
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| Ghada |
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| Magdi |
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